In the present paper three regular waves breaking over a sloping bottom have been investigated in the region of deep and shallow water, till the outer surfzone. Firstly, their orbital velocities in the longitudinal plane and wave elevations were acquired, by means of a LDA probe and a resistive gauge, respectively. Successively, their kinematics were reproduced by means of five different theoretical models, with the aim to deduce the validity and applicability of the models within the flow field. Both classical and approximated theories were taken into account. An increasing error in the reproduction of each wave kinematics while increasing its non linearities has been observed in most cases.
On some models of regular waves kinematics / De Serio, F.; Mossa, M.. - STAMPA. - (2006), pp. 439-446. (Intervento presentato al convegno 16th 2006 International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE 2006 tenutosi a San Francisco, CA nel 28 Maggio - 2 Giugno 2006).
On some models of regular waves kinematics
De Serio, F.;Mossa, M.
2006-01-01
Abstract
In the present paper three regular waves breaking over a sloping bottom have been investigated in the region of deep and shallow water, till the outer surfzone. Firstly, their orbital velocities in the longitudinal plane and wave elevations were acquired, by means of a LDA probe and a resistive gauge, respectively. Successively, their kinematics were reproduced by means of five different theoretical models, with the aim to deduce the validity and applicability of the models within the flow field. Both classical and approximated theories were taken into account. An increasing error in the reproduction of each wave kinematics while increasing its non linearities has been observed in most cases.I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.
