In the present paper three regular waves breaking over a sloping bottom have been investigated in the region of deep and shallow water, till the outer surfzone. Firstly, their orbital velocities in the longitudinal plane and wave elevations were acquired, by means of a LDA probe and a resistive gauge, respectively. Successively, their kinematics were reproduced by means of five different theoretical models, with the aim to deduce the validity and applicability of the models within the flow field. Both classical and approximated theories were taken into account. An increasing error in the reproduction of each wave kinematics while increasing its non linearities has been observed in most cases.

On some models of regular waves kinematics

De Serio, F.;Mossa, M.
2006

Abstract

In the present paper three regular waves breaking over a sloping bottom have been investigated in the region of deep and shallow water, till the outer surfzone. Firstly, their orbital velocities in the longitudinal plane and wave elevations were acquired, by means of a LDA probe and a resistive gauge, respectively. Successively, their kinematics were reproduced by means of five different theoretical models, with the aim to deduce the validity and applicability of the models within the flow field. Both classical and approximated theories were taken into account. An increasing error in the reproduction of each wave kinematics while increasing its non linearities has been observed in most cases.
16th 2006 International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE 2006
1-880653-66-4
978-188065366-1
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: http://hdl.handle.net/11589/10973
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