Experimental study on motion field generated by regular waves

The importance of an exact research about wave motion kinematics derives from the necessity both to define the correct dynamic action of waves on maritime structures and to analyse the coastal sediment transport processes. The paper describes the results of an experimental investigation based on the simultaneous acquisition of velocity components and elevations of a regular wave field, generated in a two-dimensional channel. Simultaneous measurements of horizontal and vertical velocity components were carried out by means of a LDA system. At the same time and location, the surface profile eta was assessed by a resistance probe. Then, acquired data were processed in order to obtain useful information from: mean velocity and root mean square vertical profiles; correlations among velocity components and wave elevations, indexes of a non linear wave behaviour. At last approximate methods suitable to link wave elevations with velocity components have been used in order to validate them.